Stob Dubh

In the morning I wake up at the crack of dawn... other than an incident where a crow attacked our tent, we slept pretty well.

I'm up and about by about 7am... there's something about me and mornings. Once I'm awake, I'm up and ready to start the day. I get pout the tent for a piss and marvel at the beauty that surround me... it looks different with every glnace, and the fresh morning fills your lungs and makes you feel alive!!!



I know it's going to be hours before Mowgli surfaces, so I set about preparing breakfast. I stick on some eggs to boil, and see if I can get the fire going. It's likely to be a lost cause, but I need some entertainment.

I have 3 wet logs and a soggy bog roll to work with, but I throw in a few fire lighters and a match and see what I can do.... within 30 minutes.. amazingly I have a roaring fire.... less can be said however for the eggs... they still aren;t boiling. We seem to have run out of gas.....

I head off to the car and get the hill walking books we brought. The weather has been flirting with me all morning, just when I think it's clearing to blue skys, it starts to rain, fo this reason I'm flicking through a book looking for something pretty easy... something that doesn't take too long and will never put us too far away from the car. I've went hill walking with a few people and aside from his love of Jack Daniels, Mowgli is one of my fitter companions, so we can probably takcle something reasonably interesting. I decicide to wait till we see what the weather does.....

I',ve made a fire... ran out of gas... chosen a mountain... and am now reallly hungry... I need Mowgli to wake up.

"HAW!!!!! WAKE UP"

Well that worked....

We make do with soft boiled duck eggs(well mowgli throws one of his at the aforementioned crow) , fruit juice, bananas, apples, hot cross buns and bread toasted on the fire... it wasn;t the bacon, sausages and espresso that we had expected, but thats why we come prepared!!!

We quickly clear up the tent and get the stuff back in the car... We're going to head to Glencoe visitor centre and get a coffee. From here we'll decide how the weather is and whether we're going to go walking or not.



The weather isn't bad, so after our coffee, we pick up an OS map of Glencoe.

We're going to head up Stob Dubh, which is one of the Munros which make up Buchaille Etive Beag:



We park somewhere along the Glencoe road(near the waterfall and the roadworks if anyone's interested, although I don't think anyone should ever use the information in here as the basis for mounting an expidition), and get our stuff together.

We pack our bags with soup, nuts, fruit, rolls, hot cross buns... all our saftey stuff, waterproofs etc, and set off along the path. There's loads of other people out walking, as this path is used for lots of routes... it feels good to be out in the countryside again and we are bouncing along through the rolling hills which approach the more serious mountains:





As we make our way along the path we get wonderful views along glencoe:



Ahead of us through the glen is Stob Dubh:



We march along, our spirits are high.... we use the time to talk about our planned trip to Eastern Europe in August... there's mountains in Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Bulgaria... maybe we'll be there... who knows.. we just get off on the idea of packing a bag and living spontaneously for a month.

As we move further along, we find ourselves in a valley between this...



and Buachaille Etive Beag.

We continue along this path between the mountains, getting closer to stob dubh and moving around it's base. Our book says that once we get to the cairn marking the bealach(gorge) between the two peaks, we should head up the peak.... this information is all fine and well, but this point, the peak appears to be a wee bit steep. We walk a little further on and the peak softens, but it's clear that the path drops in altitude towards Glen Etive... so instead of continuing down and getting lost in the valley, we take to the steep side of the hill.

Over some food to rejuvenate us, we take the decision to make for the peak that we can see at the steep side.

After about 10 minutes of scrambling up the hill, our legs and arms are agony... we underestimated the steepness. It's not particularly dangerous, but it's really tough... we have to try to stick to the clumps of grass, as the stones and shingle are loose and don't support you enough to climb.... after what seems like an age, we are up at a high enough level that we now have snow to contend with. It's getting colder very quickly..... but the views are improving with every step:







the wind is picking up and it;s become clear that the peak was a false peak, there is another peak which seems extremely far away... we head towards that as the wind rips at our faces and the cold air makes our joints numb. Mowgli is ahead of me, and we can't hear each other for the screech of the wind... I catch up to him on what seems to be the peak, and we quickly take some photos..



We are pretty scared... looking at each other... but not admitting to each other how frightened we are.. It's not that we are in any major danger... just that in order to stay alive, we have to march on through heavy hail with our leg muscles killing us...

We just want out of the stormy weather which engulfs us.... we are face to face with the elements... and it's not a very nice feeling... when we get over the peak, we can see the ridge stretch out before us with the wind and snow whirling around on either side of it... it's not the weather to hand around, so we march on.....



We're staggering on along the ridge.... hoping that the weather will ease, or that we can in some way escape from nature, but we have to just trudge on, with no certain idea as to when it will end and we can go lower and shelter from nature.

After a while, we see a great site.... another walker walking towards us. He's going through this ordeal alone, something I can't imagine. We have a quick conversation... the usual bravado... he tells us that the other side is easy and we tell him that our side is easy.... even though both are anything but.....

We continue on... once we get the peak behind us, the weather eases a bit, but the snow becomes thick under foot. It's a wonderful site:





We seem to be through the worst of the weather... People say that climbing mountains is good for the mind, cos once you're up there, all there is in your mind at that point is the mountain and you... survival... it kind of cleans out that work deadline that is approaching or whatever you've been losing sleep over.

For us it's just Mountain, ourselves and Pearl jam on Thursday. Everytime, one of us is down or quiet for too long the other shouts "PEARL JAM THURSDAY" and the smiles and energy return. Mowgli claims that it was greed alone that kept him alive, cos he didn't want anyone else getting his ticket.

From here in, we can see our way down... but its covered in snow.... it's not the icey stormy snow that was scarey 20 minutes ago on the ridge, but the soft snow that you make snow men out of.. We try wading through it for a little while, but swimming through snow is only getting us wet and cold. We decide to just jump and aim forward, tumbling and sliding down the side of the mountain... it's certainly a more entertaining way of descending the metres.....



We carry on like this for a wee while, enjoying the fresh snow, coupled with the euphoria of the climb, and the relief in being able to see a path all the way back to the car. This euphoria and fun ends after about 15 minutes once we can't feel anything from the knee down.

Now it's the downhill trudge... tired legs, and random dips into snow up to your thigh to zap your energy. It's at this point that we have the option of detouring to climb Stob Coire Raineach, but there's no question of it... the weather has really taken its toll on us... our legs ache... the ground is getting softer and sliding about around our feet.

At one point I take a step and my leg plummets down into the snow, I fall over and we both laugh.... until I realise I can't get my leg back out again.. the snow has fallen around it and we have a hurried dig while i feel my leg go numb... when we pull it out, we realise it was a roof of snow over a small river that I'd fallen down into.

We continue on... the weather is deteriorating into annoy rain which lashes off our faces...

Eventually we get back to the car... another couple of climbers get a flash of our bums as we hurriedly get changed into some dry clothes...

The next hour in the car is almost silent, cos we are so tired, but after that we are reminiscing about interesting parts of the climb and forgetting the dread and agony of climbing over false peaks and wanting to be out of the snow...

We pick up the Space Cadet in Glasgow and return to Ayrshire to a big hot dinner after our weekend adventures... Luke Skyetrekker heads over and we spend the rest of the evening in front of the telly talking nonsense with each other....

Weekend in Scotland... let's go camping

After several plans for easter fell through, I made a last minute decision to head home to Scotland. With Pearl Jam a mere 5 days away and lots of work to do.. I'm on edge. Some nature should do me good....

I'm arriving Saturday morning, so after a quick coffee in Glasgow with my parental units, we're down to Ayrshire with Mowgli to pack a car and head North. We're getting good at this..... we're ready to leave by about 2pm.


It's a reduced team, just me and Mowgli. It gives a chance to get excited about Pearl Jam. We're playing various bootlegs and albums all the way up in the car, and our excitemnt levels are through the roof... we're living on a mainline Adrenahlin drip...

The trip is now so common to us, that we are in Glencoe without incident in no time. It;s easter weekend, so the traffic is terrible, but wew just sit in the slow lane of tourists and sing along to our favourite songs.

We're going to camp at glencoe tonight and play guitar, drink red wine and sit at a camp site.... then tomorrow, we'll see what the weather brings... when we arrive the rain is hitting off the car window... As we pay for our tent, I ask the man at the window if he sells sun cream. the humour seems to be lost on him.

It's that really annoying weather... it's not actually raining, but it could at any point, and there's smirry rain in the air, so you get wet just being outside. We pitch the tent anyway and set about trying to start a fire. We have kindling, but the popularoty of the fire means that there is no wood or logs anywhere around. I head off in the car to the local shop...

When I get back Mowgli has the fire going, and I add some extortionatly priced wet logs to the fire. I chop up some ingredients and stick a beef in red wine(vina mara reserva) stew on the gas stove. The rain is drizzling down, but we get the guitar out and sing a few songs anyway.



Although it's raining, I love this setting:







Once it's dark and we've sat and dunked bread into our stew, I chop a few suasages into the pot, add some more wine, and some bacon and cook it for another wee while. Then we pack a bottle of wine for the road and head off into the mountains to get to the closest pub. It's a 2 mile walk or so, but it's great walking along in darkness with only the big onimous mountains surrounding you for company.

We eventually get to the pub. We re-cork our wine and hide it in a bush for the walk back.



The Clachaig Inn is a little old hotel/bar nestled in the middle of the mountains. It dates back to the 16th century, and is pretty much famous as a bar for ale drinking malt whiskey tasting hikers, climbers, bikers and walkers. There's a sign above the door saying "No hawkers or campbells", a reference to the massacre of glencoe.

We enter the bar, and it's clear that this is the only bar for miles. There is no room for breathing.... we squeeze our way through to the bar and order one of the several real ales from the new Atlas Brewery. We have something called a Nimbus:



It's smooth, light and as mowgli describes it... tastes like tropicana.

We make our way to our seats and fin ouselves drinking with some bikers... they tell us the usual biker stories, and we slowly get merry. There's a band playing... a standard pub covers band, but they do manage to pull off some rush covers, which is quite impressive. Before long it's last orders and people start to trickle out the door back to various campsites, youth hostels and hotels. We hop over a fence and retreive our pre-stashed vina mara..... we're such well prepared drunks.

We get back to the campsite and get the fire going again... we tuck into the sausage stew that was left... stewing....and sit up playing some songs with a few of the people we met in the pub...

Once the fire is out... its into the tent for a good nights sleep with the mountains for company.